Welt shoe and welting therefor



Nov. 12, 1929. I L. H. GILSON 9 3 7 .WELT SHOE AND WELTING THEREFORFiled June 16, 1928 p INVENTOR B Y M'A TORNE Y Patented Nov. 12, 1929UNET 1;

LORENZO H. GILSON', OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR'TOQPERLEY E.BAB- IBO'UR, OF QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, DOING BUSINESS AS BAR-BOURWELTING COM- PANY, 0F BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS WELT SHOE AND wnnrmeTHEREFOR Application filed .Tune 16,

This invention relates to the manufacture of welt shoes and to weltingtherefor specially prepared for sewing a buried or hidden outseam.

Heretofore, in order to bury the outseam in the welt manufacturers haveemployed the Well known fudge stitch which requires closing the two lipsof the slit over the sewed seam. Of late years ornamental welting hasgained great popularity. Ornamentation of welting takes various forms insome of which cuttings are made in the exposed surface providing twoplanes which may be stalned 1n differing colors. An example of one suchsurface cutting is disclosed in the Lyon United States Patent No.1,054,225, granted. February 25, 1913, for welting for sewedboots andshoes. Those skilled in the art will recognize thatfif welting, crosscut as illustrated in said Patent No. 1,054,225, is fudge stitched thelips of the slit cannot be laid back evenly, as can be done on plane asurfaced welting, resulting in a rough seam line showing on the surfacethat mars the finish and isnot acceptable.

A special object of the present invention 1s to provide for a buriedstitch in ornamental welts, such as the cross cut type referred to, thatwill not affect the ornamentation. Accordingly the invention resides incutting a lip from the exposed face of the Welt, that may be turned orlifted to permit the outseam to be sewed in the flesh beneath it andthen laid back over the sewed seam. For perfection in shoemaking thechannel, which produces the lip, is cut from the inner margin of thewelt outward. This preserves the material advantage of an integral outeredge on the welting. In its broader aspects the invention compriseswelting fitted in the novel manner hereinafter described for sewingburied outseams and in the shoe having such a sewed outseam.

The invention will best be understood by reference to the accompanyingdrawing showing the best form of the invention at present known, inwhich all the figures are shown in perspective and Figure 1 illustratesa portion of a strip of Goodyear weltingof usual dimensions and 1928.Serial No.' 285,805.

fitted in the usual manner with a groove andv shoe showing a welt,ornamentedby staining and cross cutting, sewed to the outsolein themanner taught by this invention.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing a strip ofGoodyear welting 10. having a stitch-receiving groove 11 and a grainbevel 12, is channeled on' its exposed or grain surface. The channel 14(Fig. 2) is cut from .the inner margin of the welt outward and producesa lip 16 that may be liftedya'sshown by Fig. 3, to expose the flesh 17beneathit for stitching, cementing or any other required operation; I vThe welt of this invention is inseamed'preferablyiwith the channel 14closed, as illustrated in Fig. 2, and the outsole stitcher is providedwith a suitable tool for lifting or turning the lip 16, substantially asillustrated by Fig. 4,operatingin advance of the stitchformingmechanism. Preferably after the outseam 18 has secured the outsole 20 tothe welt 10, the fiesh 17 or both theflesh and under side of the lip arecemented and the lip is laid back in the channel as illustrated by Fig.5. The lip 16 may be lifted from its channel 14 and the channel cementedprior to the outseam sewing operation. 'In this event the outsolestitcher might be provided with atool for laying the lip onthe cementedchannel immediately after the joutseam is sewe'd.

The generally used shoemaking processes up to the securement of theoutsole, need not be altered in handling this new welting. As

already stated the grain-side-channeled welt ing passes through theWeltguide of the welt sewing. machine like unchanneled Goodyear weltingand is secured by an inseam 22 to the upper materials 23 and insole 24.In

v the upper,

Fig. 5 there is shown a welt 25 ornamented by cross cutting andillustrating graphically how the ornamental surface is preserved fromdistortion by burying the outseam beneath the lip lying in the grainside channel.

It will be observed that by the use of a grain side channel that is cutfrom the inner margin outward, the outer edge of the welt is not cutinto and presents an unbroken sur face for finishing just the same aswhen the outseam is surface stitched or fudge stitched.

and in addition the exposed face of the welt is left whole and unmarredby cutting because the longitudinal cut, to produce the channel, is sofar inward that it is hidden by The nature and scope of the inventionhaving been indicated, and its preferred embodiment having beenspecifically described, what is claimed as new, is

'1. A welt shoe having a welt inseamed t the upper materialsand insole,and an outsole outsealned to the welt by a stitch buried beneath a lipcut in the grain side of the welt from the inner margin outward topreserve an integral outer edge on the welt.

2. Shoe 'welting having a grain side lip extending longitudinallythereof; the outer edge of said lip being integral with the centralstock ofthewelt body and its inner edge being free throughout the lengthof the welting.

3. Shoe welting-having its grain side partially severed longitudinallyto: produce a lip, the free edge of said lip being within the inner edgeof the welt body and. the attached edge of said lip being adj acent-theouter edge of the welt body but leavinga substantial integral outermargin. a I V In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

LORENZO GILSON.

